Make Apple Wallpaper Different

Apple have the slogan Think Totally Different so I got the idea how to make apple wallpaper different too with little effect in photoshop.


image001



Step 1

Prepare the apple wallpaper if don’tn have it you can take in my collections here.

Step 2

Make new layer and circle selection with elliptical marquee tool around text apple like this

image002



Step 3

Change foreground colour with green light #A6D050 and background with dark green #448511. In layer 1, make gradient colour with radial gradient, drag from left top to bottom right.



image003



Step 4

Right click in layer 1 and choose blending option, follow this setting

image004image005

And we’’ll get picture like this

image006


In layer menu change fill from 100% to 0%


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So we can see the background layer

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Step 5

Clik in layer 1 still you see circle selection and let it live, so click layer background then go in menu filter choose distort > spherize

image009


Repeat again ( Don’t use CTRL+F ) make amount 50%. So in Spherize we do twice with different amount, first 100% and 50%.I hope you got it!:D

So we got the picture


image010


Step 6


Make sure the foreground and background in black and white colour or you can press button D in keyboard, and make sure too the circle selection still live. In layer 2, choose paint bucket tool image011 fill it with black #000000.


image012


Make it little size,you can use Show Bounding Box.Drag to up to down,left to middle and right to middle then press enter.


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image014


Step 7

Right click in menu layer then choose Blending options > outer glow

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Oops sorry my screen change…!:(


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Step 8

Go to menu Filter and choose blur > Gaussian blur


image018


Repeat again (CTRL+F), make the opacity15%


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Step 9


Make new layer,the make selection with rectangular marquee tool image020. I make selection under the apple ball. Make sure foreground layer is white then go to brush tool, choose brush with master diameter 200px .


image021


Make line from left to right.


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And the final is….:D

image001

Thank’s for read my tutorial, and I hope you will keep join in my blog. GoodLuck!


DzibrilOne - 2009

Text And Crome Rain

Make text with crome effect is very attractive if effect we add with other effect, like effect rain crome for example. Only with six easy steps at photoshop we can make it without lost time.


Final.jpg


Step 1

Make document width 502 height 403 with white background. Change foreground colour with grey #545454 and background black #000000. Make gradient colour with radial from top to bottom.


Background.jpg


Step 2

Make new layer and make text with size 70pt and colour grey #545454. I use Good Times font for make it.


Make text.jpg


Step 3

Right click in graphics layer choose blending option, and follow this setting:


Inner Shadow.gif


Inner Glow.gif


Bevel Emboss.jpg


Satin.gif


The text will be like this:


ScreenHunter_05 Mar. 04 08.03.jpg


Step 4


In graphics layer make duplicate layer , choose menu layer >duplicate layer, so we have two layer. In graphics layer choose Indicates Layer Visibility for temporary graphics layer 1 is not seen, cause we will make effect in duplicate layer .


ScreenHunter_06 Mar. 04 08.04.jpg


Step 5

In duplicate layer, choose Filter Menu > Distort > Wave, if you see warning from Photoshop just click OK,and get setting wave like this


wave.jpg

So we will get picture


crome rain.jpg


You can change with increase or decrease it as you like, with Ctrl+F or you choose again wave menu.



Step 6

Show to return layer graphics 1 with click Indicates Layer Visibility. Choose filter menu > Stylize > Diffuse

difuse.jpg


And final will like this


Final.jpg


So simple isn’t, how lost your time, five minutes ? I guess not !

Finish…!


DzibrilOne -2009

Sky Logo

In this tutorial, I will be explaining a very simple and straightforward way of creating Sky’s latest logo. We will be using layer styles and adjustment layers to achieve a transparent glass effect, which will come in handy for many other graphics too. I used Adobe Photoshop CS3 to create the outcome to this tutorial, but certainly earlier versions of the program will also be entirely suitable. This tutorial requires no advanced knowledge of Photoshop, and should be easy for everyone to follow.


outcome.jpg

Step One:

Firstly, you will need to download the font that is used to create the sky logo. You can find it at this link here: http://www.dafont.com/sky-logos.font
Once you have installed the different TrueType font files, they should automatically load up for use in Photoshop. If not, restart Photoshop and try again.


Step Two:


Create a new document with a white background at a size measuring 500 x 300 pixels. Select the ‘Horizontal Type Tool’ and using the ‘Sky TV Channel Logos’ font, type the number ‘8’ with a size of 400pt into your text box using black as your colour. Make sure that ‘Smooth’ is selected in the drop down anti-aliasing menu.

steptwo_texttoolbar.jpg

You should now have something that looks like this:


steptwo_outcome.jpg
Step Three:


This is where the fun begins! Using only layer styles, we can achieve an awesome transparent glass effect. If you are using the same sized text as me, these settings will be perfect. Otherwise, you may have to alter them slightly depending on your text size, but they fundamentally remain the same.


Open up the ‘Layer Styles’ menu by clicking on the small ‘fx’ icon at the bottom of the layers palette, or alternatively, double click on your layer in the palette. The first style we will be adding is a ‘Bevel and Emboss’. Make sure that the settings have been changed to match those shown in the screenshot below:

stepthree_bevelemboss.jpg

Depth: 225%

Size: 4px

Use Global Light: Unchecked

Altitude: 65 degrees

Glass Contour: Custom

You will also need to add a ‘Contour’ to the ‘Bevel and Emboss’ setting, so check the box underneath in the Layer Styles menu, and select this to go to the menu. Simply select the first option in the drop down menu with the diagonal sloping line, like the one shown below:

stepthree_contour.jpg

You should now have something that looks similar to the image below. It looks awful now, but it makes all the difference for later!




Step Four:

Keep the ‘Layer Styles’ menu open, as we will now be adding a colour overlay. Simply select this in the menu, and add a white overlay like that shown in the screenshot below:

stepfour_colouroverlay.jpg

Also, we will be adding a ‘Satin’ to the image, so select that option in the ‘Layer Styles’ menu and alter the settings to those shown below:

stepfour_satin.jpg

Opacity: 20%

Distance: 14px

Size: 21px

That’s all the layer styling you need! Your image should now look like this:

stepfour_outcome.jpg

Step Five:

The final step is to add the blue tint to the text. We will be doing this through the use of an adjustment layer, which are amazingly handy layers which can be used to change a number of different things such as colour, tone and contrast.

Go to the bottom of the layers palette again, and click on the small circle icon, which is filled in half black and half white. A small menu should then appear, where you should select the ‘Colour Balance’ option. It should open up another menu with different ’slider’ options. Simply follow the screenshots below to get the correct settings.

stepfive_midtones.jpg

Cyan/Red: -40

Magenta/Green: 0

Yellow/Blue: +34

stepfive_shadows.jpg

Cyan/Red: -4

Magenta/Green: 0

Yellow/Blue: +16

stepfive_highlights.jpg

Cyan/Red: -10

Magenta/Green: 0

Yellow/Blue: +7

Now you are finished! Here is your final outcome:

outcome.jpg

Age Progression

Men and women age a little bit differently but since I’ve only aged female celebrities thus far, I’ll just focus on women for this tutorial. I’ll be using the image of Katie Holmes that I did for a past W1K contest, as an example.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/5698_katie.jpg


Step 1: Choosing an Appropriate Photo


When deciding to age-progress a celebrity’s face, I try to select a picture that is touched-up as little as possible.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step01a.jpg

I really love this picture

I find that candid shots, or any shots that have not been taken in a studio, work best because the resulting harsh lighting reveals more of the skin’s details i.e. slight bags under the eyes and faint wrinkles. The appearance of such details makes it all that much easier to visualize how your subject will age. Visualizing what the end result will look like brings you one step closer to aging her face realistically.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step01b.jpg

In Katie’s case, we can see very faint horizontal lines on her forehead, fairly obvious lines under her eyes and lines bracketing her mouth.



Step 2: Collecting Reference Material


Reference material is key in my method of aging. Keeping Katie’s face in mind, I scoured the Web, looking for faces of old women who either resemble Katie and/or share the same facial expression. Here, Katie is smiling with her face positioned at a 3/4 angle so I tried to gather as many pictures of old women who are smiling in the same manner or close to that. I then opened up the picture of Katie in Photoshop and pasted the found images around her face on a separate layer, spread out to provide easy visual access.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step01c.jpg

Another kind of reference I like to use but is usually hard to find, is pictures of the subject’s parents. I managed to find a couple of reference pictures of Katie’s mother online and they really helped me to decide whether or not to give Katie a double chin. Since her mom has quite a bit of mass under her chin, I decided I would apply that to Katie too.



Step 3: Thinning Brows

Now the fun begins! The first thing I like to do is to thin out the subject’s eyebrows and eyelashes. The older people get, the thinner their hair gets - either because hair falls out and/or because it dries out as it greys.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step02a.jpg

So to achieve this, I like to use the Clone Stamp tool at 100% with a relatively small brush size depending on the size and resolution of the image. I sampled the surrounding skin to thin and reduce the number of hairs.




Step 4: Mold the Face


Next, I like to add the basic sags to the skin. I do this in the Liquify mode. I tried to create sagging effects to the cheeks, jowls and the cliff just above the eyes by using the Push tool. For the eyes, I tried to be subtle; otherwise she may end up looking somewhat ghoulish.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step03a.jpg

From what I’ve learned about the aging process, I know that while bones cease to grow, and in fact shrink, cartilage does continue to grow. As a result, the end of a nose may appear larger as a person grows older. So while I was still in the Liquify mode, I used the Push tool to extend the length of the nose slightly. Then I used the Bloat tool to also enlarge it slightly, being careful not lose the essential quality or character of the nose. Go too far and it may not look like Katie anymore.



Step 5: The Aforementioned Double Chin



http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step04.jpg

Based on her mother’s pictures, I then added a fairly massive double chin. I initially used the Airbrush tool with some fairly broad strokes, sampling the colors that were already in the area of her neck. I then worked in the details with a finer brush size. Also, keep in mind that I was also using the other reference photos of older women to guide me.



Step 6: Wrinkle Up the Eyes



For me, the most important parts to get right are the eyes. They can make or break the project. Done wrong and the picture may no longer be identifiable as one of Katie Holmes anymore. I sought out the fine lines around the eyes and I tried to imagine how they would progress into wrinkles. I then extended them in length and width accordingly. Referencing the pictures of old women helped a lot with this step.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_KT_step05.jpg

I used a combination of the Stamp tool and Brush tool. I wish I could explain my technique at this point in a more clinical manner but mostly I relied on my artistic instincts. I emphasized the wrinkles around the eyes by widening and deepening the lines slightly and increasing the contrast by darkening the recesses and lightening the edges. Also, I extended wrinkles to the cheekbone areas. I then applied the same technique to the wrinkles around the mouth and to the forehead.



Step 7: Reducing the Lips



In this step, I work on the lips. As people grow older, the outline of the lips tends to recede. Using the Stamp tool, I sampled the skin surrounding the lips and thinned them out.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step06.jpg

While I was at it, I also added a few vertical wrinkles above the lips to give her a bit of a "prune" effect. We just want a hint of that, so don’t carve out deep lines; deep lines would only be necessary if she was puckering her lips.



Step 8: Planning Out More Wrinkles



http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step07.jpg

Here, on a separate layer, I faintly outlined or sketched, with a relatively thin brush size, areas that I may or may not add more lines and wrinkles to. It’s easy to get carried away with the addition of wrinkles. So, I stopped, took a step back and assessed where to take to image. For me, it’s essential and a great test to see what best works.

Step 9: Touching Up the Wrinkles

Based on the previous step, I added wrinkles where I thought they were needed most.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step08.jpg

Overall, I found that the wrinkles and lines seemed a little flat in comparison to the rest of Katie’s features. They needed more definition so that they could pop out more. So, I highlighted the raised edges of the individual lines with the Brush tool and with a lighter skin tone.

Step10: Hairy Lips
Facial hair becomes an issue with most women as they age. For some strange reason they lose it in the brow area and grow it back around the mouth area. I didn’t want Katie to be the exception so with a very fine brush size and the Brush tool, I added hairs to her upper lip.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step09.jpg

I tried to make it as subtle as possible. Hairs too thick or dark would draw the viewer’s attention straight to her mustache and I didn’t want that. I also added more wrinkles to the area below the corners of her mouth.

Step 11: Refining the Neck


http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step10.jpg

I decided that the neck was too smooth for a woman of 75 years of age. So I added finer wrinkles to that area. Also, I added more mass and weight to her jowls with the airbrush by increasing the value of the tones in those areas thus creating more contrast between surface planes.



Step 12: Adding Age Spots

A key component to effective aging of a face is the addition of age spots.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step11.jpg

So at this point, I sampled one of the darker skin tones on her face, and on a separate layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity, I brushed them in and tried to create irregular shapes (there IS no perfect age spot). You can add as many as you like; the amount varies from person to person. I decided to be conservative with Katie.



Step 13: More Refinements

I took a little break from it and came back to it later to possibly get a better perspective on it. When I looked at it, at this point, I decided that certain areas needed refining and added detail. This is the beauty of working with a high-resolution file; I can zoom in real close and deal with a wrinkle up-close and personal.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step12.jpg

Unless their teeth were subjected to regular whitening, most people’s teeth yellow with age. Gums also recede, showing less gum and more bone. And so with that in mind, I sampled a yellowish-brown color and on a new layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity and painted that color to the teeth with the Brush tool. Her gums didn’t show to begin with, so receding the gums here wasn’t necessary.


Step 14: Preparing the Hair


http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step14.jpg

The finishing touch here is greying the hair. I began by creating a mask defining the area of the hair. I used the brush for this and tried my best to define as many loose strands of hair that I could.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step15.jpg

With this mask as a selection, I then created a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and reduced the saturation to -63.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step16.jpg

I then created a new adjustment layer based on the same mask and adjusted the Brightness/Contrast to brightness +9 and contrast -36. As a result, I found that the darker areas were too pale and caused a loss of depth and so to adjust that, I then selected the mask and scratched out the darker areas with a 5px brush size at 50% opacity so that they could show through from the original image.



Step 15: Hair Raising


The next step was to raise the hairline and thin out the hair. Hair loss is common with both sexes.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step17.jpg

I sampled the area at the top of the forehead and extended the skin area above the original hairline.



Step 16: Greying the Hair


A lot of details of the hair were lost in the previous step so with a thin brush size at 80 percent opacity I drew in fine grey hairs, sparsely laid out.

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kT_step19.jpg

Patiently, slowly, stroke by stroke I added more and more hairs until I was happy with the amount of grey I had added.



Step 17: Finishing Touches


Finally, I took a step back, refined a few wrinkles here and there ET VOILA!

http://www.exguides.org/photoshop-tutorials/images-age/40004_kt_step20.jpg

I hope Katie will not ever see this photo… :D



Source: PSDTUTS


DzibrilOne - 2009

Text Fire Effect

How to create Text with fire effect? This is great tutorial with easy step in photoshop

image001


Part 1-The Background

So create a new document in Photoshop at 1920px wide x 1200px high, and with the Gradient Tool (G), draw in a radial gradient of browns (#5c3d09 to #1f1409) so you get something like what is shown below.
Notice that the gradient is not centered vertically but sits toward the top. In this image we want the top of the text to be on fire, so the top part of the image should be a bit more lit up.

image002

Step 2

As in the grass text tutorial, once again we’re going to have a textured background. But rather than starting from scratch, I just copied the background from the previous tutorial, merged all the layers and desaturated to get what you see below.

If you need to make this from scratch, first visit Bittbox to get the original paper textures and then follow the previous tutorial’s steps.

image003

Step 3

Now we set the layer to Overlay and to blend the texture into the background.



Step 4


Just to add a bit more texture though, let’s run the Texturizer filter. To do this, create a new layer and fill it with a brown/beige color-#66500f. Then go to Filter > Texture > Texturizer and use the Canvas texture with 80% Scaling and Relief set to 4.

image005


Step 5


Once you have your texturized layer, set that to Overlay. This adds some extra fine detail to our texture which is good because we’re working on such a big canvas.

image006


Step 6

Next we’re going to apply a layer to slightly desaturate the bottom half of the image. This is so that the top looks like it has a warmer glow where the flames are, while the bottom looks a little colder.
So create a new layer and fill it with the color #4b4f3b. Then add a layer mask with a gradient to mask out the top and fade down (so you get the effect shown).
Now set the layer to Color and 45% Opacity.

image007


Part 2-Text + Glow = Awesomeness

OK, we now have a nice background! So let’s add some text. I’ve used the font Trajan because it’s a really dramatic looking font. Here I’ve placed the text in the color #cb9328, then set it to Linear Dodge (Add) with an Opacity of 8%.
What we’re going to be doing with our text is making it look like the top half of the text is coming out of the background and is red hot with flames flickering off. This means we’re going to run a lot of effects and apply layer masks to them so that only the top half shows while the bottom half reverts to faded out text like we have currently.

image008


Step 8

So first create a new layer group to put all the text layers in-because there will be a lot of them. Then duplicate the text layer and set the color of the duplicate text to #5e3f1c.

image009


Step 9

Now set the newest text layer to Overlay and 70% Opacity. It should look kind of reddish (as shown below).

image010


Step 10

Now duplicate the text again and set the latest duplicate to a yellowish color-#cb9328. Then set this to Linear Dodge (Add) and Opacity 30%.

Next we add a layer mask and draw a gradient so the latest text layer fades out as shown below, and beneath you can see the reddish colored combination of the bottom two text layers.

image011
image012


Step 11

Next we duplicate the text layer yet again, but put this layer right on the bottom. Set the color to black-#000000. Then go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and it will ask you to rasterize the text, click yes to that, and then set the Radius to about 4px.
Then Ctrl-click any of the other text layers and go back to the black layer and hit delete so you are just left with a sort of shadow. Then duplicate this layer and merge it with the first so the effect is heavier. You should have something that looks like the screenshot below.

image013


Step 12

Once again, add a layer mask so the shadow quickly fades out as shown. This makes it look like the text is coming out of the page.




Step 13

Now duplicate our black layer again and using the Smudge Tool (R) and a largish soft brush you want to just smudge the shadow around so it looks like burn marks.

image015


Step 14

Here’s how our text is looking now. I actually created two sets of "burn" marks, and then four sets of the shadow layer each blurred a little more than the last and each faded back.

image016


Step 15

Now it’s time to make the top part of our text glow. So first of all, duplicate the text layer again and place this layer at the very top and set it to a yellow color-#dc9a08.
Then run a Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur over it with Radius of 8px. Then grab a large soft eraser brush and just erase away parts at the bottom so it’s kind of uneven.




Step 16

Set our first glow layer to Soft Light. You might want to repeat the process, erasing even more so the top part is even glowier.

image018

Step 17

Now duplicate the text layer yet again and place this at the very top. This one should be again the same yellow (#dc9a08).
Then go to Layer > Rasterize > Type and turn the text into a flat graphic. Then Ctrl-click the layer and go to Select > Modify > Contract and use a value of 1px. Then press Delete to delete everything except that 1px outline.

image019


Step 18

Now set the 1px layer to Overlay, and you should have something like the image below.

image020


Step 19

Now to our 1px glow add a layer mask to fade it out down the bottom as we’ve been doing with the other layers.
Then duplicate the layer, and run a Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur set to 1px. Then duplicate this layer again and blur it by 2px. Then duplicate the layer again and blur it by 4px.
Then Ctrl-click any of the text layers, press Ctrl+Shift+I to inverse the selection and go through each of the glow layers and press Delete to remove any of the blur that has strayed out of the boundary of the text.
The idea is that we want the edges of the text to look red-hot with it fading in to an overall hot glow on the text.

image021


Step 20

Next we duplicate all four of the glow layers and merge them together. This should result in a layer on top which is the original bright yellow.
Grab the Smudge Tool and run over the text, smudging it up to look like heat waves coming off the text, as shown.

image022


Step 21

Now set this latest layer to Overlay and you should have something looking like this!

image023


Step 22

Now we’ve pretty much finished our text. I went through and duplicated some of the glow layers to make it look even more fiery. Feel free to experiment with getting a real red-hot glow look by doing so.

image024


Step 23

Next, in keeping with the last wallpaper, I’ve gone and added a quote underneath my main text. This provides a nice embellishment to the page. Try to use colors that fit in with the background and text layer so it doesn’t stand out too much, because we really want this to be a secondary element to the main text. I’ve used Swiss Light Condensed as my font and laid it out just like in the previous Grass Text tutorial.

image025


Part 3-The Flames

Finally, with all our preparation done, it’s time to add the actual flames! For this, we need some images of fire set against a plain black background. A good photo is hard to find, and try as I did, I couldn’t find a really great free photo. So in the end I used this photo from Fotolia which you can purchase using the link below. There was also an OK photo from Flickr which I’ve also linked to and which I ended up using later for the "E". So you might want to grab that too.
AcheroN-Fotolia.com
Peasap-Flickr.com
Now the technique for copying the flames over is actually really simple. I actually only learned this technique recently when reading one of Nik Ainley’s tutorials for DigitalArts magazine called Create Amazing Photomontages where he did it with water.



What you need to do is:
  1. Open up the flame image in Photoshop
  2. Go to the Channels tab and find the channel with the highest contrast, which for images of fire should be the Red Channel, and click on it
  3. This will make your image appear black and white, and because we’re on the highest contrast layer, it will seem really bright white. Now Ctrl-click this channel and it will select all the pixels in that channel.
  4. Click back to the RGB channel and copy the selected pixels
  5. You can now paste the flames into your main canvas!

This is actually a really, really useful technique for copying something translucent like fire off a flat background. And as you’ll see by visiting Nik’s tutorial, it’s also great for copying water!

image026

image027



Step 25

OK, so here we’ve pasted the flames on to our main canvas. (For clarity I’ve also temporarily switched off the text layers). As you can see, we’ve got the fire without the black background and it’s partially transparent, which means it’ll look super on top of our text.

image028


Step 26

Now the next thing to do is to cut up our one bit of fire into a few pieces. Just duplicate the layer and switch off one as a backup first. Then using the Pen Tool, cut up the fire so you work with the contours of the flame so it looks natural. Here you can see I’ve produced four pieces of flame from the one image. You can also try flipping bits around to make them seem more random.
Set the layers to Screen mode so that any remaining black parts are totally gone, and it’s even more transparent.

image029


Step 27

Now because my text is just four letters, I need four separate pieces of fire. For the fourth one (on top of the E) I actually grabbed that Flickr photo and repeated the same process as earlier to create another flame. Also the fire on the letter I has been squashed a little as well to make it look more random.

image030


Step 28

Applying the fire is really as easy as moving the flames over the text. You want to try to match the flames to the shape of the letter so it looks like they are dancing off the letters.

image031


Step 29

OK here I’ve placed all four bits of flame over the top. It’s not bad, but you can see that the I and the R have the same flame and also all the flames aren’t very tall.

image032


Step 30

So here I’ve gone through each flame and using the Transform Tool stretched them vertically. Also I used a bit of judicious erasing to make the flame on the I look a little more unique.




Step 31


Now to make them look even more lit up, duplicate each flame layer, run a Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur with a Radius of 3px and set the layer to 15% Opacity so it provides a bit of glow around the edges of the flames.

image034


Step 32

So we’re pretty much there! This is how the composition looks.

image035


Step 33

Finally we’ll add a last highlight. So create a new layer above all the others and draw in a white to black radial gradient as shown. Set this layer to Overlay and 40% Opacity.

image036


Finished!

And there we have it, a text on fire effect! In the next tutorial in the series, we’ll be producing the Air image, however it’ll be in two weeks, not one-as I’m taking a few days off work!
If you’re interested in creating flames from scratch in Photoshop, you might also like to check out this classic tutorial that coincidentally uses the exact same typeface! It’s a Photoshop 6 tutorial, and I can still remember reading it like a half decade ago, but it’s still very relevant, even if the screenshots feature a super retro Mac interface.

image001

Powerfull Mental Wave Explosion Effect

Author : Fabio

In this tutorial, I will show you how to create a crazy explosion, like a mix of Magneto's ability with Peter Petrelli's power. We will use images and filters to produce this wave explosion effect.




Step 1
Open a new document. I used 800x600px. Look for a road photo on the Internet. The one I used can be downloaded here. After downloading, place the photo in your document.

Step 2
Now we need a photo of a person. The one I used can be found here. Once you have your photo, it's time to extract the guy from the background. Using the Pen Tool(P) create a path like in the image below. After that go to the Paths Palette and create a selection from that path. Then go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection. Lastly, I named this layer "dude."

Step 3
Go to Edit>Transform>Scale and reduce the size of the guy. Then go to Edit>Transform>Flip Horizontal. We do that to match the light direction.

Step 4

Go to Image>Adjustments>Curves. The idea here is to darken the guy a little bit so he will fit better with the background. Use the image below as a reference.

Step 5
Holding Cmd/Ctrl click on the mask thumb of the "dude" layer. That will create a marquee selection of the guy. After that create a new layer. Rename it to "shadow" and fill it with black. Then go to Edit>Transform>Distort and move the vertices to make the shadow in perspective. The last thing here is go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur.

Step 6
Grab the Ellipse Tool(U). Select Paths instead of Shape Layer. Create a Circle, like the image below. After that grab the Direct Selection Tool(A) and adjust the bottom of the circle.

Step 7

Create a new layer. Rename it to "clouds." Then go to Filter>Render>Clouds. While holding Alt, click on Clouds. After that go to the Path's Palette and create a selection from the path and mask the layer.

Tip: As you will be using the Render>Clouds, you will probably need to apply the filter several times until you got the clouds just right. Keep working with it until the light and dark areas are in a good position.

Step 8

Go to Filter>Liquefy. In the Liquefy Dialog Box select the Bloat Tool (B). Then for the settings use: Brush Size 550, Brush Density 100, Brush Pressure 100, Brush Rate 60, and Turbulent Jitter 75.

Then select the Show Backdrop Option. That will allow you to see the clouds and the background. It will be necessary to use the Bloat Tool in the right place. Click a few times and deselect the Show Backdrop. Then you will see the effect and will be able to repeat it more times in the correct place.

Step 9

Change the Blend Mode of the cloud layer to Soft Light. Then create another layer and rename it to "Clouds 2" and repeat Steps 7 and 8. We will need another cloud to make it more turbulent. This time, however, use Multiply for the Blend Mode.

After that, create yet another layer. Rename it to "Clouds 3" and repeat Steps 7 and 8. For this layer use Color Dodge for the Blend Mode. The last thing here is with the Eraser Tool (E) delete some parts. This layer is used to give highlights to the clouds.



Step 10
Group the "Clouds 3" layer and go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. After that, select the Brush Tool (B), give it a black color, and mask some parts of the clouds that are close to the ground.

Step 11
Select the "Clouds" layer and go to Filter>Sharpen>Sharpen More. Then repeat this Sharpen filter on Clouds 2 and 3 layers.

Step 12

Create a new layer. Rename it to "Glow." Fill it with white and go to the Path Palette. Create a selection from the clouds path as we did in Step 9. Then mask the layer.

After that go to Layer>Layer Style>Outer Glow. Use the default settings. Then go to Layer>Layer Style>Create Layer. This command will create another layer from the Outer Glow. You can delete the white layer and leave just the Outer Glow layer.

Step 13

Create a folder called "Lights." Move the "Glow" layer to this folder. Next select the "Glow" layer. Then go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. Then select the Brush Tool, black for the color, and start masking the glow. We need just the outline; however, some bright spots in the middle will give a nice result.

Step 14
Create a new layer beneath the clouds group. Using the Elliptical Marquee Tool create a selection like the image below. Fill the layer with black and use 40% Opacity.

Step 15
Go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. After that select the Gradient Tool(G) and use a black and white gradient. Then mask the layer, like in the image below.

Step 16
Duplicate the layer and go to Layer>Layer Mask>Apply. Then go to Edit>Transform>Distort. Repeat the same thing we did for the shadow of the guy on this layer. Group these two layers and rename the group to "Shadows."

Step 17
Create a new layer right above the road photo. Go to Filter>Render>Clouds. Then go to Filter>Distort>ZigZag. Use 100 for the Amount and 5 for the Ridges. For the Style use Pond Ripples.

Step 18
Now go to Edit>Transform>Distort. Distort the layer until you get the right perspective. After that, change the Blend Mode to Overlay. Again, as we are using Render Clouds, the results may vary so you might need to erase some parts to make it more realistic.

Step 19
Create an Elliptical Selection like the image below. Then fill it with black. After that, create another Elliptical Selection, but smaller. Then delete that part of the layer. With the Magic Wand Tool(W) select the black part of the layer.

Step 20

Duplicate the road's layer and select it. Make sure that you still have the Marquee Selection from the Step 19. Then go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection. You can delete the black ellipse layer from the Step 19 or just hide it.

Go to Layer>Layer Styles>Bevel and Emboss. This is another way to create the ripple effect. You could use Displace as well.

Step 21
Go to Layer>New Layer Fill>Gradient. Use Radial for the Style. For the colors use #ddc396 and #2f1e00. Change the Blend mode to Color Dodge.

Step 22
Here I used another image from Stock.Xchng, image. Just place it on top of all layers and change the Blend Mode to Overlay.

Step 23
Now let's make some adjustments. First, lets darken our Magneto dude a bit more. Select the Burn Tool(S) and burn the back of the guy. After that, change the Blend Mode of the "ripples" layer to Soft Light. You can delete some parts of the clouds as well.

Step 24

Create a new folder, beneath the "dude" layer. Name the group "power" and change the Blend Mode to Color Dodge. After that, create a new layer inside of this group. Then using the Brush Tool with white color, create some lights coming from the hands of the guy. Tip: use a regular brush with 0% for the hardness.

After that you create another layer. Use some brushes to add more effects. I used some abstract brushes from http://brusheezy.com. Then add a Pink Outer Glow Layer Style.

Step 25
Import the truck image, you can download it at image. Then with the Magic Wand Tool(W) select and delete the background of the photo. Leave just the truck. After that go to Edit>Transform>Flip Horizontal. Move the truck to the side of the road.

Step 26
Go to Image>Adjustments>Curves and make the truck a bit darker. After that, using the Rectangular Marquee Tool(M), create a rectangular selection a bit bigger than the truck. Then go to Filter>Blur>Radial Blur. For the settings use Amount 2, Method use Spin, and set Best Quality. Next go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur. Then use -75 degrees for the angle and 3 pixels for the Distance.

Step 27
Now we will create the truck's shadow. To do that select the Truck's layer, click with the right button of the mouse and choose Select Pixels. Then create a new layer and fill it with black. Put this layer beneath the truck layer and go to Edit>Transform>Distort. Distort the shadow to make it look more real. Then go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Change the Opacity of this layer to 60%.

Step 28
Group the truck and the shadow layer and rename it to "truck." Then organize your folders in the Layers Palette.

>Conclusion
You can add more elements to the image, like a traffic cone or more cars. But always change the curves in order to make the objects have the same lighting. That will make the image more realistic. For some effects, there will be many other ways to achieve a similar result. Experiment with different methods of achieving an effect, like we did with the ripples. Finally, stick with the ones you think are the best for that image.